Luca Paschina, direttore di Barboursville Vineyards, la tenuta della famiglia Zonin in Virginia, racconta per la prima volta su Wine is love la sua vita a Barboursville (qui una piccola introduzione).

It can be complicated to write about twenty years of your life, especially if you try to be clever, funny or creative about it and then more likely you will be distorting it.

I believe instead in writing about it in a truthful way, as it naturally flows from my heart and memory.

I arrived in Virginia in the summer of 1990 with the mission of consulting the Zonin Family for a 3 month period. That particular harvest, my first here, coincidentally was recently described by the few seasoned local vintners as one of the worst in the past three decades.
I still concur that 1990 was a vintage to forget and yet back then I had a sense that Virginia and especially this site had a much greater potential that needed to be better understood, nurtured and brought to life.

It was during a beautiful mid October evening, on the eve of my return to Italy, that I clearly had a calling and a wish to return and implement the needed changes to allow this wine estate to shine with its true colors and potential.

Virginia intrigued me not just for the wine potential but as well for the richness of the landscape, amazing native brook trout fly-fishing stream, history and the kindness of the people.

I was painlessly hooked.

A few days later upon my return to Italy I spent an afternoon sharing my findings and suggestions with founder Gianni Zonin about the winemaking, and  grape growing tactics needed in Virginia.
This was a very important meeting because it allowed me to understand that he was the kind of person I would gladly work with, since his principles and goals were something my father would have shared and required from me as a young winemaker.  Furthermore meeting all of the many family members involved in the wine estate, Casa Vinicola Zonin, gave me a sense that I was not engaged and sent by only one man, instead by a whole family.

Shortly after that meeting I returned to Virginia and I recall spending almost the entire winter in the vineyards pruning the vines of Barboursville. It was very inspiring and gave me a time to process a lot of thoughts about my present and dreams about the future here in this new home called Virginia.

The plan laid out in Italy with Mr. Gianni Zonin required a drastic introduction of new techniques, yet inspired by tradition, of planting, spacing the vines, pruning, fertilization, defoliation, all of them so new to Virginia that we even received benevolent, yet negative criticism from some skeptical grape-growers.

Like a young and vigorous vine I was fully involved mentally and physically with all of the aspects of this vibrant activity, growing, fermenting, bottling, selling and promoting.

It was promoting and sharing the wine that gave me an opportunity to meet a lot of people, understand their taste for wine, meet with local chefs, and ultimately have the pleasure to meet Patricia, who later became my wonderful wife.

As the years and vintages followed with them arrived children, the first important national and international wine awards, the comforting and so enjoyable and frequent visits from my parents and the Zonin family and of course along came some challenges which were all overcome by using the increasing patience, wisdom and finding the right and skilled people to help for the growth of this place.

Still, the most important thing we had to create was the style of the wine and to express the flavor of this estate.

For the style, instead of growing what the market wanted to drink, we chose to plant several varietals of grapes and then allowed the land and the climate to shape them, and this is how we learned to concentrate mainly on pinot grigio, viognier, cabernet franc, nebbiolo and a Bordeaux blend Octagon.
The use of traditional wine practices was then simply applied resulting in wines that truly could shine with food at the table. Still today, at home with food or at our Palladio restaurant is where I can better understand the wines of Barboursville.

For the flavor of the estate we simply had to carefully build new structures that fit and respected the territory and the architectural tradition. Furthermore we carefully maintained the existing historic buildings on the estate and brought back to life the original and ancient gardens.
This has been the inspiring approach of the Zonin Family in shaping all of their nine wine estates for several decades in Italy, respect for the territory, local traditions and love for the land, the wine and culinary arts.

With the creation of our Palladio Restaurant and the reopening to guests of the historic Inn I truly believe that now anybody can come and essentially breathe, see, taste and feel the flavors, shapes, colors, sounds and emotions that this place is all about.

Thank you, to all of you who have been part of this twenty years, visitors, family, friends, colleagues.

You all have been and are part of this wonderful, still growing dream called life.

Nel 1969, quando mio padre decise di investire in vigna per avere il controllo diretto e totale della filiera (unico modo per garantire la qualità delle uve e quindi del vino) partì dal Friuli con l’idea di raggiungere le regioni a più alta vocazione vitivinicola d’Italia.
Nel 1970 acquistò la Tenuta Ca’ Bolani, nel 1979 Castello d’Albola, nel 1980 Abbazia di Monte Oliveto, nel 1985 Castello del Poggio, nel 1987 la Tenuta Il Bosco, nel 1997 Feudo Principi di Butera, nel 1999 Rocca di Montemassi e nel 2000 Masseria Altemura completando un impegno trentennale che oggi va sotto il nome di Gianni Zonin Vineyards.

Tra tutte queste tappe ne manca una, forse la sfida più grossa, una scommessa quasi folle che si chiama Barboursville Vineyards, in Virginia. Era il 1976, la “vitis vinifera” non esisteva in quello stato ed occorrevano 3 aerei ad elica per arrivarci, un viaggio infinito. Ma c’era tanta storia, e c’era la scommessa addirittura di un Presidente americano, Thomas Jefferson, che in quella terra si sarebbero potuti produrre vini di assoluta eccellenza. Il cammino è stato lungo e le sfide da vincere molto più numerose e dure del previsto, ma oggi Barboursville Vineyards rappresenta un bellissimo gioiello dentro il mondo Gianni Zonin Vineyards.
E ne sono convinto, quando dico che questa storia fantastica non si sarebbe potuta scrivere senza una persona che ha guidato per mano questa azienda, portandola dal totale anonimato (sia di nome che di qualità dei vini) alla ribalta in Virginia, nelle East Coast, ed oggi in tutti gli Stati Uniti. Sto parlando di Luca Paschina, il General Manager e Wine Maker di Barboursville, un “ragazzo” di Alba che ha trovato nuove radici al di là dell’Atlantico (Luca mi perdonerà il “ragazzo” virgolettato… ma ci prendiamo sempre in giro!).
Oggi Barboursville Vineyards e Luca Paschina sono un binomio ormai inscindibile.

Non dico altro, ho chiesto a Luca di pubblicare qualcosa sul mio blog perchè quest’anno festeggerà con noi la sua ventesima vendemmia a Barboursville Vineyards, e lunedì racconterà qui, in inglese, i suoi primi vent’anni tra quelle vigne.
Aggiungo solo una cosa: grazie di tutto Luca!